Monday, February 6, 2012

'Spectacular ukiyo-e imagination!'

Last chance (!!) to see the Kuniyoshi exhibit at the Mori Arts Center Gallery, on the 52nd floor of the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower. Show ends Feb. 12th.



Utagawa Kuniyoshi, (1797-1861) was one of the last great ukiyo-e masters. He's know for some delightfully strange woodblock prints, featuring cats in yukata, toads, samurai wrestling with fish, and my personal favorite (see poster above) entitled, "At first glance he looks very fierce, but he is really a nice person," first printed in 1845.

Click here for a sneak peek.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

I feel sorry for Jou-Jou


What's going on with this ramshackle house? Is a hoarder living there? Poor 'Jou-Jou Bar & Foods', such a great little hangout, right next door to an eyesore and fire hazard, though it seems to vanish after dark (at least I've never seem any lights on).


Jou-Jou is located at 5-1-32 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, just off Meiji-dori on the north side past the Eneos gas station. If you're heading east toward Tengenji-bashi, it's where you turn left for the Hiroo shopping street (Homework's, Smash Hits, etc.). The bartender is good with the cocktails - hand sculpts the ice to order with a pick and everything. Nice food too. Tiny place though.

a stroll down Meiji-dori in Hiroo...


reminds me that I should be working as a freelance copywriter.
Cocktails are for Kids! Please take a look at the wine list that I designed. Wine goes better with food, your body and takes you to beautiful places!


Bar Drunky, where all cocktails are 1,000 yen


You and the Night and the JAZZ

 
We use only Fresh Pork. We want to share our smile with you! 

bunny on the bus

One fine day in December I was riding a city bus bound for Shibuya, having just dropped the kids at school, and what do I see on the seat in front of me? A guy with a rabbit in his lap. (I love this town.)

Naturally, I asked the man if I could take some pictures. What else could I do, I was practically standing over him, shoulder to shoulder with the morning commuters, and it was at least another 10 minutes to the station. He said O.K.

Schoolboy looks on with awe

sad sort of rope-leash

Later at the bus station I spotted Bunny Man walking, holding a backpack just inches from the ground, the front flap unzipped to allow the rabbit, who was comfortably sitting inside, to see where they were going.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

hashi for the whole kazoku

Well it's official - we are leaving Japan at the end of June. Emotions are mixed, of course, but I'm generally happy with this plan, grateful to have had the time here, etc., etc., and fully intend to enjoy the remaining months. I'm also determined not to run around town buying "last chance" stuff. Like rolls of washi paper and grapefruit Frisk mints. We've collected enough mementos to last a lifetime.

But I have my weak moments, like on Friday afternoon, when I walked past Tokyu Hands on my way to run an errand in Udagawacho, in Shibuya, and, for the record, did *not* go inside (that place is dangerous - it sells everything you never knew you needed - like paper clips shaped like clothes hangers, and sumo wrestler kitchen magnets). But there was this nice man outside the north entrance, selling chopsticks, and engraving them too.

Long story short, now everybody in the family has a pair.

The hashi artiste told me he's only there occasionally, as he moves around to other locations (other Tokyu Hands department stores in Shinjuku and Ikebukuro) but he'll be selling, and engraving, outside the Shibya store through this weekend.

Watch him in action:
video


After engraving, he rubbed gold paint into the grooves.

 
Finished!

Thursday, February 2, 2012

a family goes out for dessert...

...and mom gives in. (Sometimes you just have to let them get what they want.)

what is it with melon soda? looks like antifreeze!

Thursday, January 26, 2012

park rules

Sign posted in Arisugawa park in Hiroo:

Please Do Not Brush Your Dog's hair On a Bench 

And this is because.... ?? Don't mean to quibble; I don't have a dog, and maybe the ban increases my chances of finding a place to sit whenever I think to go to this quiet and rather lovely area of the park, a clearing surrounded by woods, away from the pond and the playground, but I'd love to know the thinking behind it. What am I missing?
 
Last time the boys and I were in the park we noticed that some winter berries, purple things the size of BBs, had sprouted on some of the bushes. The elderly couple, in the background behind Dylan, above, are just sitting and admiring. I guess I can see how brushing a dog could kill the mood.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

shortcut to Shibuya station


Walking south along the JR train tracks, standing bars up ahead on the left

at the cemetery

A couple months ago, when there were still some autumn leaves on the trees, KT and I spent some time in Aoyama cemetery to practice some new skills we had learned from the brilliant photog Alfie Goodrich. Here are some of my favorite shots from that day.







Monday, January 16, 2012

Happy Year of the Dragon!

A belated Akemashite omedetou to all. It's tatsu doshi!




The 12-year cycle of zodiac animals, junishi in Japanese, is, like many aspects of Japanese culture, a concept copied/stolen/borrowed/adopted from China more than a thousand years ago, and then altered/improved/bastardized.  My son Conor was born in a Year of the Dragon - the last one, 2000 - so it's his year. Dragons, it is said, are strong and powerful and wise, nonthreatening but also not shy, who like to talk and get things done. They can be hotheaded yet compassionate. (It does seem to fit...)

Our other son was born in the Year of the Horse - which means he's independent and a hard worker, friendly but sometimes selfish; energetic, with a mind of his own. He likes nothing more than to run free about the countryside, because, well, he's a horse. (Not bad.) Terry and I are Roosters, which means we're shrewd dreamers. If you believe this stuff...

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Gishi-sai festival

Every year on Dec. 14 there's a memorial event honoring the Vendetta of the 47 Ronin, masterless Samurai who on this day some 300 years ago performed ritual suicide after avenging the betrayal of their lord (who upon being betrayed committed seppuku, leaving them masterless). First there's the Gishi-Gyoretsu, a procession of volunteer Ronin-reps (bearing some very long swords) through the streets of Tokyo, along Showa dori and Sotobori dori and Hibiya dori, with a stop at Zojo-ji and then on to the Sengaku temple in Takanawa, Minato ward, burial site for the real ones.

Terry and I caught up with the group in Tsukiji, near the Chuo ward office, just as they were starting out around midday, and we followed them for a bit until Terry had to go back to the office. Some pics:


 dude in the cool helmet, leader of the pack, waiting to cross the street, spots me with my camera...

and poses!


I read online somewhere that "The Forty-Seven Loyal Retainers in Akoh" is one of the best loved tales in Japan, told and retold in movies and TV dramas and in Kabuki theater; the plays and novels that recount the legend usually go by the titles Chushingura ("The Loyal Retainers") and Akoh Roshi ("Akoh's Masterless Samurai").

Not for nothin', but Robert DeNiro learns all about the 47 Ronin from a French guy who paints miniature samurai figures (and gives him a safe place to recover from a bullet wound) in the 1997 John Frankenheimer film Ronin, which we just watched for the 5th or 6th time the other night (we were taking a break from Season 2 of The Walking Dead). If you've never seen it, rent it, there are some terrific car chases.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

silly purchase of the month: the 'Poodleg'



Available now at the Pansy shop on Aoyama dori. It's near the Crocs store, between the Children's Castle/U.N. University and Kotto dori. Because I know if you're in Tokyo you'll want to run out and buy a pair for yourself right now.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

it's a theme

re: previous post, this "Let's..." business is everywhere. Big thanks to Katy Dix for finding these gems...and sending me these pics:




From my dentist's office:
 

gift tags purchased from the 100 yen store
"Let's get friendly forever and ever!"

Starbucks+XMAS=:)


Ah, Starbucks and Christmas. Christmas and Starbucks. Is there a better seasonal marketing campaign than the "Let's ...." series? I don't think so.

Let's take a look.




And now my two favorites (photos by Katy Dix, chief "Let's" spotter)


Less than 2% of the population of Japan is Christian but that doesn't stop this country from celebrating the season with Santa outfits, poinsettias, and fir trees with all the trimmings. Sometimes in pink and purple...blue and silver... gotta give "Starba" (is this British shorthand or universal? help me here people) credit for going with traditional red.

Here are the boys at Shibuya station, East bus terminal. I think Dylan is drinking ice milk (me-roo-koo)...

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

goodbye, good friend

One of the tough things about being an expat kid is that every few months or so, you're saying goodbye to one of your friends. Not surprising, really; the expat community is by nature transient, with families moving in and on with regular frequency, as jobs change, international assignments end, or, as is more often the case these days, companies shut down or make employees redundant. Lately, though, what seems to be spurring some families to go is a weariness - parents, primarily mothers, sick of worrying about their kids' health and safety in post-March 11 Japan. Specifically, nagging concerns about food, whether it's contaminated, how much can you safely eat if it is, etc.

That's not to say that this subject still dominates coffee morning conversation. It doesn't. (Seems bullying at school is the new hot topic.) I think people here have come to accept a certain amount of risk, and anyway, nothing serious (as far as I know) has been detected in Tokyo save for the occasional report of, say, radioactive Cesium found in Meiji-brand baby formula.  It's important to note that in this particular case the levels detected in the product were far below the government limit, though try telling the mother of an infant that a little Cesium is O.K.

Same with mothers of older kids. I don't want to give my kids even a little Cesium 134 or Cesium 137 or any other isotope that "may" increase their risk of cancer later in life. Key word "may" as the long term effects of low-level exposure are still not known, not in kids or adults. At a safety briefing at school a few weeks ago, we were told that it's still unclear whether young developing bodies, because they are young and still developing, are more vulnerable, or more resistant to harm.

So we've become vigilant about reading labels on the produce and meal and milk, avoiding anything that comes from Fukushima (if the store even carries it, which many have started to, as a show of support for the poor Fukushima farmers) and the areas around it. I try to buy items from Kyushu (down south) and Hokkaido (north). Of course, we're told that food can be re-routed and labels marked with only the most recent location rather than the true origin; that a little contamination is permitted under government regulations, so producers could be mixing a little bad in with the good, to keep the overall supply within acceptable range (though Meiji's actions in recalling 400,000 cans of tainted formula is encouraging); and, even in a country with strict standards and an above-average safety inspection system, that it's impossible to test all food in any comprehensive, effective, reliable way.

So we worry.  I can't imagine there's anybody who doesn't think about it whilst picking up a head of broccoli or lettuce. I know that many who once shopped at their local green grocer now almost exclusively shop at the international supermarkets and pay more for imported produce; some have stopped buying milk altogether. Some keep a list of the kanji for prefectures to avoid in their handbags.

And some leave.

Long-time expats here (non-Japanese friends who've been here well past your more typical 3 to 5 year stay, in some cases longer than a decade, their kids born and raised here) often say that for the children, it's always harder to be the one left behind. Dylan would probably agree. His good friend Edwin has just gone, and it's hit him pretty hard. In the last three years he'd been over to ours countless times, for play dates and sleepovers; the boys had done "Swim Friends" and tennis lessons and karate classes together. When Dylan took a few friends out for Korean barbecue to celebrate his 8th birthday, Edwin was there. He's a great kid, and we'll all miss him.

Best of luck to you, Ed!

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

raising the bar

It's common now for Japanese companies to regularly measure employees' waistlines and demand they stay fit, else they be fined by the government. Some offices pump 'exercise music' over loudspeakers, as a way to encourage workers to periodically rise from their cubicles and move a little.

Let this mechanical guy be an inspiration to salarymen everywhere.
video

spotted at Hakuhinkan Toy Park, 8-8-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Monday, December 5, 2011

Sunday in Ginza

Chuo-dori, near Harumi -dori, the heart of Tokyo's posh Ginza shopping district, around 4 p.m. on December 4

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Tokyo Metro, reminding us how to behave

Drunk on the train? No sweat, just be sure to stay upright even as you pass out...

Actual English tagline: 'Even if you've had a few drinks, please don't lie down on the train seat.'