Had dinner last night at Kaikaya, a 'Market-boothesque East-meets-West Fish Restaurant' in Maruyama-cho, a part of Shibuya-ku (same ward we live in). The owner and chef, Teruyuki Tange, their website explains, "has created his close network of supplies with the people working by the sea through his many years of love of surfing," and the fish is brought in fresh daily from Sagami Bay. They do set menus, several dishes served one after the other, like a tasting menu, but in bowls and platters for groups to share. You're supposed to use the top ends of your chopsticks to serve yourself.
We had fish carpaccio in garlic and oil, shrimp dumplings, spring rolls, sashimi, Korean-style steak with scallions and fresh wasabi (that you grate yourself at the table), tuna jaw (fish heads simmered in soy sauce and fresh ginger, really delicious), scallop risotto, some sort of grilled white fish... It came to about $130 per couple. Not bad for all you can drink beer, wine and sake. And it's a good place for gaijin, with its English menu and small staff that treats customers like old friends and shouts things at you in Japanese. The floor manager and cook, Ippei Takei ("hobbies are lure fishing, drinking and playing in the band") took care of us, herding us to our seats and bringing us food and drinks with a friendly flourish. The place is small and noisy, and our group, about 20 parents from D's class plus his teacher and her husband, dominated the room, occupying the two largest wooden tables.
If you can read Japanese, some of their recipes are posted online (with pictures). Or click here to see what's in season. In a word, "fishes!"
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